He spent his last years in Paris, where he wrote most of his greatest music. Rick Steves explores both the new and the old in London, including the National Gallery, the Tower of London, the London Eye, and the British Museum. Respectful tourists are welcome. They decided to stage a courageous uprising. It was built in the 18th century by Poland's very last king, King Poniatowski, who wanted it both for his own summer residence — his striking Palace on the Water — and as a place for his citizens to relax. Today this city is Poland's leading tourist attraction…with plenty of top-notch sights. The crematorium is marked by its chimney. By the 1930s, Warsaw — with 350,000 Jews — was one of the largest Jewish cities in the world. While few Jews actually still live here, the spirit of the Jewish tradition survives. Like much of Poland, Kraków pulses with cool jazz nightly. Auschwitz was the biggest and most notorious concentration camp in the Nazi system. Sevilla. by Rick Steves and Cameron Hewitt | Jun 19, 2012. This is the oldest chapel in this part of the salt mine, Saint Anthony chapel from 17th century. 0. Rick Steves' Europe. Driving through the countryside back to Kraków refreshes travelers with a look at today's peaceful rural Poland. And Warsaw, decades after it was systematically destroyed during World War II, is a lively, thriving capital once again. After they were killed, everything of value was sorted and warehoused. We're having some traditional Polish dishes that go well with vodka: herring, cold cuts, Polish pickles, and steak tartare. With Rick Steves. Go 1,000 feet underground in the vast Wieliczka Salt Mine, near Kraków, to tour the inactive mine and see the statues and chapels the religious miners carved out of the black salt over the centuries. The notorious gate welcomed inmates with a cruel lie: Arbeit Macht Frei…"work will set you free.". After years of neglect, the district began a rejuvenation in the early 2000s. The mine's enormous underground church, carved in the early 20th century, is still used for Mass. In 1555, it burned down, and was replaced by the current building. The cathedral interior is slathered in Baroque memorials and tombs, decorated with tapestries, and soaked in Polish history. During the partition in the 19th century, we didn't even show on the map but we survived — thanks to being Polish, and thanks to being Catholics. This square is where Kraków lives…kids practice breakdancing, horse carriages take you for a ride, and folk bands add traditional color. Several sights in Warsaw commemorate those who were murdered, and those who fought back. Several eateries on ulica Szeroka offer klezmer music, typically starting between 19:00 and 20:00. Why don't you sip it? Poland Rediscovered: Krakow, Auschwitz and Warsaw . Until next time…keep on travelin'. Rick Steves' Europe. The remarkable Wieliczka Salt Mine — just outside of Kraków — has been producing salt for eight centuries. 1. Rick: Yeah. Poland's two must-see cities are Warsaw and Kraków. You'll see legends from the days of King Kazimierz, when one-third of Poland's income came from these precious deposits: the famous astronomer Copernicus, and even the region's favorite son, Pope John Paul II. Oct 1, 2004. The Cloth Hall is still a functioning market — selling mostly souvenirs, including wood carvings, chess sets, jewelry (especially amber), painted boxes, and trinkets. Na zdrowie. Rate. 0:55:02. The bricks are worn smooth by countless inmates who sat here to catch a little warmth in the middle of a bitter Polish winter. European Festivals I. Kraków emerged from World War II virtually unscathed — it slumbered under communism until Poland won its freedom in 1989. Sevilla does festivals with gusto. While the 1944 Warsaw Uprising is a recurring theme in virtually all Warsaw sightseeing, two sights in particular are worth a visit for anyone with a special interest: The Warsaw Uprising Monument (at plac Krasinskich) and the thorough, modern Warsaw Uprising Museum (inconveniently located a 10-minute tram ride west of the central train station — but well worth the trip for history buffs). Virtually everything you see is rebuilt. While Warsaw was in the sphere of Moscow and therefore more Eastern and conservative, Kraków has long been more Western and liberal. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the Best of Europe. Resilient Krakovians took this opportunity to rebuild their city with a near-perfect grid plan — a striking contrast to the narrow, mazelike lanes of most medieval towns. As the smoke cleared and the Nazis retreated, the Red Army marched in and claimed the pile of rubble that was once Warsaw. And learning from this country's recent past, I'm reminded we have much to be thankful for and much to be vigilant against. They watched, and waited. 9 Oct. 2004 Highlights of Paris. Glasgow: Gritty Industry and Feisty Scottish Culture, Neuschwanstein: “Mad” King Ludwig’s Castle in Bavaria. To Poles, this church is the national mausoleum. Post questions and answers about travel in Poland. But Auschwitz victims and their families want tourists to come here, to experience the scale and the monstrosity of the place in human terms, in hope that the Holocaust will never be forgotten. Few travelers take time to see the countryside. My Account . Back then you couldn't just sell things anywhere. Kaisa: Ok, first of all, na zdrowie (toast). Please try again. 21 $25.00 $25.00. 10. Rick Steves' Europe. Rick Steves Snapshot: Kraków, Warsaw & Gdańsk contains all the complete chapters on Poland, excerpted from Rick's full-length Eastern Europe guidebook — and leaves out the chapters on other Eastern European destinations. Seeing the camp can be difficult. 30. The mine’s enormous underground church, carved in the early 20th century, is still used for Mass. 4.5 out of 5 stars 28. With Rick Steves. The castle long served as a royal palace. Rick Steves' Europe is public television's most-watched, longest-running travel series. Warsaw's Royal Way — a mostly buses- and taxis-only shopping boulevard — is a local favorite for strolling, and browsing, and ultimately leads you to Warsaw's historic Old Town. Rick: So, vodka has long been part of Polish culture? But Poland's been particularly hard hit through the ages. It holds the tombs of Poland's greatest rulers and historic figures. The neighborhood of Kazimierz, 20 minutes by foot southeast of Kraków's Old Town, is the historic heart of Kraków's once-thriving Jewish community. Its outskirts sprawl with Communist-built apartment blocks. A visit to Germany's Black Forest and Cologne includes stops at a mineral spa and a casino. 2. The Germans bombed the sprawling gassing and cremation facilities as they retreated. Or in the Cloth Hall. keywords The resilience of Poland's culture and the warmth of its people inspire me. Downtown has a Gotham City ambience — with busy boulevards, expansive squares, and blocky buildings. For centuries, generations of Wieliczka miners spent their daylight hours underground, rarely seeing the sun. Then, about a year later, the entire city rose up against the Nazis in the Warsaw Uprising. This uniquely eclectic church is the product of centuries of haphazard additions…yet somehow, it works. People were given hooks to hang their clothes on, conned into thinking they were coming back. see our FAQ. A quarter of a million Poles were killed. Art Proud miners carved figures of great Poles out of the salt. The small houses are traditionally used by three generations at the same time. Contact Info. To really focus on klezmer as an art form, pay a bit more to attend a concert, performed most summer nights in several synagogues (for the latest lineup, check for fliers around town, or ask at any tourist information office). Rick Steves' Europe Greek Islands: Santorini, Mykonos and Rhodes. This monument recalls the 50,000 Polish resistance fighters — the biggest underground army in military history — who launched a surprise attack on their Nazi oppressors. Collapse. Proud miners carved figures of great Poles out of the salt. Also: a romantic forest; sampling chocolate-cherry cake. 13. They murdered over 4 million European Jews in Poland. If he pointed to the right, the prisoner marched — unknowingly — directly to the gas chamber. Each midday, crowds gather for a medieval moment as a nun swings open the church's much-adored altarpiece. Breakfast was included and it was the most extensive, delicious food we ever had at a hotel. In the old days, when the winters were long and very cold, we needed it. Check your local listings for air dates. After dinner, we'll take a nighttime stroll, lacing together the city's piazzas and fountains. Today Wawel is the most-visited sight in all Poland. The Palace of Culture and Science — Poland's tallest building, at over 700 feet — is a Warsaw landmark. One of the most impressive medieval woodcarvings in existence, it depicts the death of the Virgin with emotion rare in Gothic art. The colorful architecture reminds locals and tourists alike of the prewar glory of the Polish capital. Because of the ferocity of Nazi hatred, nothing remains of the ghetto except the street plan and the heroic spirit of the people who once lived here. At Birkenau the Nazis gassed and cremated over 4,000 people per day. Travel with Rick on this video guide to the Czech Republic and find out what to do on your next trip. But with ambience like this, it's clear the Jewish heritage here is a rich one. It's close to every Polish heart. Warsaw's huge, idyllic Łazienki Park is sprinkled with Neoclassical buildings, peacocks, and young Poles in love. The neighborhood of Kazimierz — named for the king — was a thriving and autonomous Jewish community for centuries when most of the world's Jews lived here in Poland. His scribes bragged "Kazimierz found Poland made of wood, and left it made of brick and stone" — he even made it onto the 50-złoty note. 9. When the tour’s over a small but industrial-strength lift beams you up. Season 10 Episode 1006 | 25m 2s | Video has closed captioning. It was our warm-up. While Poles and Jews managed to live together relatively well, the story became a nightmare with the rise of Nazism in the 1930s. Travel with Rick on this video guide to Poland and find out what to do on your next trip. 3. The Nazis didn't like this inefficiency, so they built a far bigger camp two miles away. Every country's had its ups and downs. Now what? Everything here around us is made of salt — even the chandelier is salt crystal. I'm Rick Steves. Join Rick as he explores the most surprising and fascinating land he's ever visited - Iran. After descending 200 feet below the surface, you follow your guide on a mile-long downhill stroll, getting a memorable peek at life in the mine. Perhaps the best way to enjoy that is at a klezmer dinner concert. Nearby, the imposing St. Mary's Church — with its soaring lookout tower — has long been an icon of the city. Hopefully they take away a determination to learn from the holocaust, and never let it be repeated. Two chimneys connected by a brick duct provided a little heat. Thanks for joining us. Eyeglasses evoke how individuality was trashed. Compared to the rest of Europe, Polish churches are alive with people practicing their faith. $1.99. On a balmy summer night, Kazimierz's main square, ulica Szeroka, is filled with the haunting strains of klezmer — traditional Jewish music from 19th-century Poland, generally with violin, string bass, clarinet, and accordion. To get away from the tourists' Kraków, bike or hike around the Planty and up the park that lines the Vistula River. If you don’t trust me you can taste it. He granted them special banking and trading privileges, and established the long-standing tradition of Poland being a safe haven for Jews in Europe. Once they saw these blue lines, village boys were welcome to come a courtin'. Season 5 Episode 3 | 25m 4s | Video has closed captioning. Travel with Rick on this video guide to Prague, Czech Republic and find out what to do on your next trip. 5. 8. Paperback $37.30 $ 37. Kaisa: Okay, let's do it. Crutches and prosthetic limbs remind us that the first people exterminated were mentally and physically ill German citizens; children's clothing — the Nazis spared no one — and a seemingly endless mountain of shoes…it's hard to comprehend the numbers. Rick Steves’ Europe Seasons . Romania. Watch Rick Steves' Europe - Season 4, Episode 10 - Salzburg and Surroundings: Rick visits the birthplace of Mozart and explores the delightful romantic town of Hallstatt. Catholicism defines the Poles, holding them together when nothing else could. FREE Shipping by Amazon . Ghetto Heroes Square — now surrounded by bland Soviet-style apartment blocks — marks the heart of what was the Jewish ghetto. Smaller text Larger text. I find Polish culture and history both compelling and confusing. Kraków grew wealthy from trade in the 12th century. Take me as example, I’m 65 years old and I’m still fresh, still young. Copy Copied! After a three-hour train ride from Kraków, we arrive in Warsaw. Even though Poland's political capital moved from here to Warsaw 400 years ago, Kraków remains the country's cultural and intellectual center. But locals cherish the thought that Chopin's inspiration came from memories of wind blowing through the willow trees of his native land, Poland. Crowds got you down? The big, round defensive fort standing outside the wall is a barbican. Ultimately less then 10 percent of Kraków's Jews survived the war and the death camps. For centuries, generations of Wieliczka miners spent their daylight hours underground, rarely seeing the sun. But across the grounds of the castle you can uncover more fragments of Kraków's history, and have the opportunity to visit several museums. Warsaw — pronounced "var-SHA-va" in Polish— is Poland's capital and biggest city. So it hurts only once. Halls are lined with photographs of victims, each marked with dates of arrival and dates of death — inmates rarely survived more than a couple of months. We are planning to have 2 nights at Krakow and 1 day trip to Auschwitz. the Mongols — swept in from Asia and destroyed Kraków. Reservations are required — whether visiting on your own or joining a guided tour. Thankfully, these are good times for Poland. Hopelessly outgunned by the Nazis, the uprising was crushed, the ghetto was demolished, and its residents were killed. It’s vast: nine levels…1000 feet deep…over a hundred miles of tunnels. Kaisa: Strong? Before posting, please read our Community Guidelines. As more Jewish people were moved in from the countryside, Warsaw's ghetto was soon the miserable home of well over a million people. Rate. The gas chambers — where the mass killing was done — were disguised as showers. Former cellblocks tell the story. Guide: Visitors expect salt white, but it’s black, but it’s salt. Wieliczka, a salt mine 10 miles southeast of Kraków, is beloved by Poles. Deep beneath the ground, the mine is filled with sculptures that miners have lovingly carved out of the salt. Guide: Visitors expect salt white, but it's black, but it's salt. Today it's busy not with miners, but with tourists. Episode 311: Budapest: The Best of Hungary. 7. In the 1930s, a quarter of Kraków's population was Jewish. Rick: Na zdrowie…Ohh. To me, the thriving city itself is the best memorial to those Warsaw heroes. People were told they'd be starting new lives and to bring luggage — clearly labeled with their names. He was a great warrior, diplomat, patron of the arts, and womanizer. Stream Poland - Travel with Rick Steves by Travel with Rick Steves from desktop or your mobile device Chat about your favorite shows. And salt preserves everything. Rate. It's also the city's edgy, hipster culture center — jammed with colorful bars, creative eateries, and designer boutiques. Today, this delightful and people-friendly green belt — a park called the Planty — circles Kraków's Old Town. Wawel Hill is sacred ground to the Polish people — a symbol of Polish royalty and independence. It began as a simple, stripped-down Romanesque church in the 12th century. Pope John Paul II was a hometown boy and served right here as archbishop of Kraków before being called to Rome. Home / Blog: Cameron's Travels; Posted on December 28, 2018 December 19, 2019 by Cameron Hewitt. Travel engages me with our world, and helps me feel fully alive. Train tracks lead efficiently past the main building, into the camp, and to the dividing platform. Traders passing through were required to stop for a few days and sell their goods at a discount. Complete Video Script. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | The charm of today's Kraków lies in its medieval roots. A Nazi doctor stood here and evaluated each prisoner as they stepped off the train. Video: Watch Prague, an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. This is the oldest chapel in this part of the salt mine, Saint Anthony chapel from 17th century. Krakow, with its bubbly Baroque and cobbled charm, is emerging as the exciting "next Prague." After descending 200 feet below the surface, you follow your guide on a mile-long downhill stroll, getting a memorable peek at life in the mine. Through all this, the Soviets sat here, across the river. Get it as soon as Wed, Jul 8. Jump to bottom. Back then, parents announced that their daughters were now eligible by getting out the paint. And nestled in the center of all this utilitarian concrete are plenty of urban charms. Take me as example, I'm 65 years old and I'm still fresh, still young. It's vast: nine levels…1000 feet deep…over a hundred miles of tunnels. Auschwitz II, or Birkenau, was a vast factory of death holding 100,000 people. Because the Nazis leveled the ghetto, there is literally nothing left except the street plan, some monuments, and the heroic spirit of its former residents. Please suggest what else can we do/see in other 2 days? The Nazis turned this army base into a death camp. The population of the ghetto was down to about 60,000 when those who remained realized that they would die even if they did nothing. Barcelona and Catalunya. keywords Art Industrialization Poland. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Poland. Some come to worship and others to remember leading figures in Polish history, such as Kazimierz the Great. I mean it's just like…wow! And during Communism it was also very difficult and very dark, but we expressed our freedom and our political dissent by going to Mass. This time we're in Poland with such a rich history and a promising future. And today, even the higgledy-piggledy charm of the buildings has been painstakingly restored. The highlight of the entire castle complex is the cathedral. Guide: The total number of chapels in this mine is over 20. The Old Town's many restaurants provide a good introduction to Polish cuisine…and central to that is vodka. With Rick Steves, Andreas Clemens, Georg Reichlmayr, Holger Zimmer. Poland. Several powerful museums are dedicated to telling the story. We start in Kraków — it's like the Boston of Poland: a charming and vital city buzzing with history, college students, and tourists. 75% of its nearly 40 million people are practicing Catholics. Season 10 of Rick Steves' Europe debuted across the US on public television in the fall of 2018. Poland is devoutly Catholic. Posted by apyfiz19 (India) on 03/22/17 04:57 PM. Episode 310: Poland Rediscovered: Kraków, Auschwitz, and Warsaw. Several restaurants offer Jewish music from 19th-century Poland with their traditional cuisine. With the expectation of help from Soviet tanks which were gathering just across the river, it seemed like the right time to attack. Because it was to be "Soviet in substance and Polish in style," Soviet architects actually toured Poland to absorb the local culture before starting the project. Though legendary saxophonist Janusz Muniak passed away in 2016, his famous club is still the best for all-around jazz in a sophisticated cellar environment. With its bubbly Baroque and cobbled charm, exciting Kraków is emerging as the "next Prague" — a vibrant city that's a surprise hit with many first-time visitors. In the northeast corner of Europe, Poland is one of the largest countries on the Continent. Before the war, Warsaw's Old Town Square was one of the most happening spots in Central Europe. The Nazis began moving people out at the rate of 5,000 a day to nearby death camps like Auschwitz. Nearby, a visit to Auschwitz teaches us a timeless, soul … Kazimierz the Great turned the Cloth Hall into a permanent structure in the 14th century. In Warsaw we stayed at the Polonia Palace hotel which was also a splurge at $150 a night. You'll explore this unique gallery — learning both about the art and about medieval mining techniques — on a required tour. The grand city of Warsaw experienced more than its share of hardships in the 20th century. Auschwitz I, where public transportation from Kraków arrives, has the main museum building, the Arbeit Macht Frei gate, and indoor museum exhibits in former prison buildings. Go 1,000 feet underground in the vast Wieliczka Salt Mine, near Kraków, to tour the inactive mine and see the statues and chapels the religious miners carved out of the black salt over the centuries. If he pointed to the left, the person was judged strong enough to work and would live a little longer. Kaisa: Yes, it's a traditional Polish drink, and actually it makes a lot of sense. Kaisa: What a question! Each inmate had an ID number, a barrack number, and a bed number. If you're going to remember one Polish king, remember Kazimierz the Great, who ruled Poland from Kraków in the 14th century. After centuries of living relatively peacefully in Poland, Warsaw's Jews suffered terribly at the hands of the Nazis. It was a "gift" from Stalin in the 1950s that the people of Warsaw couldn't refuse. As with the rest of Poland, the real tragedies came with the Nazis and World War II. But the most powerful Holocaust memorial — I think in all of Europe — is the concentration camp here at Auschwitz, an hour's drive from Kraków. Start a New Topic. It's Wawel, and Poland actually begins in Wawel. Written and hosted by best-selling guidebook author Rick Steves, each half-hour show takes viewers to Europe's most interesting places, from great cities to off-the-beaten-path discoveries. In the 14th century, when other nations were deporting Jews, King Kazimierz actively welcomed them. It was rifles, knives, and Molotov cocktails against air force, tanks, and artillery as they battled courageously for 63 days. It was essential to survive this harsh climate. 4.6 out of 5 stars 13. Industrialization Up to a thousand were packed into each of these buildings. For more information, contact Lisa Werner at lisaw@ricksteves.com or Hope Reed at 520-622-1393. Since liberation day in 1945, millions have visited this place. Rate. Vodka, after it's chilled properly, pours thickly into the glass. A monument to Fryderyk Chopin, Poland's great Romantic composer, graces the park's rose garden. After the Tartars destroyed their city, Krakovians built this imposing wall. Hunger and Hope: Lessons from Ethiopia and Guatemala. All the full length Rick Steves Europe PBS Episodes that I could find. 6. They crammed Warsaw's Jews into a single neighborhood and surrounded it with a wall. ...and experience the phoenix of Europe — Warsaw. Rate. So if all you want is the best of Poland, this compact Snapshot guide delivers everything you'll need to know — for about half the price and half the bulk. Stay tuned for lots of Rick Steves’ Europe this fall — including episodes on Portugal (Lisbon and the country’s heartland), the heart of England, Greek islands, Sicily (Best of Sicily and Sicilian Delights), Scotland (Glasgow, Highlands, and islands), cruising travel skills, and two special episodes on Europe’s greatest festivals. Episode 313: Sevilla. Kazimierz the Great and his predecessors gradually surrounded the cathedral with some 20 chapels, which were further modified over the centuries — making this beautiful church a happy hodgepodge of styles. Dzień dobry. Rick Steves' Europe. Today — whether you're looking for a fancy egg, some traditional embroidery, or a little amber — it's your one-stop souvenir-shopping arcade. The ruins stand as a memorial. A few buildings survive. Rate. About a year later, the rest of the city staged another ill-fated uprising: the Warsaw Uprising. Who fought back helps me feel fully alive world War II virtually unscathed — it slumbered communism! Rural Poland expect salt white, but with ambience like this, works! You do n't trust me you can taste it, pours thickly into the `` shower room. what can! To reserve, but with tourists culture and history both compelling and confusing nothing! Given hooks to hang their clothes on, conned into thinking they were coming back December 19, by..., Rick climbs to the right, the ghetto was down to about when... Experienced more than its share of hardships in the early 2000s feet deep…over a miles... The tombs of Poland 's capital and biggest city two weeks in Poland much of Poland Kraków... 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